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By Ant Standring 

Along with the instructions provided with your actual shower kit, this guide should provide all the information you need to install your very own concealed thermostatic shower valve. 

You should note before you commence that any equipment guarantees or warrantees may be invalidated should said equipment be installed by anyone other than a professional plumber or bathroom installation expert. 

Before you begin, double-check you have all the necessary parts, counterparts and pieces at hand; along with any and all required tools (an itinerary should be obtainable from your supplier upon request). 

Regardless of your individual knowledge or know-how, one fact remains true for everyone, from one installation to the next, you should flush the pipe-work beforehand, so as to clear any foreign bodies or contaminates and to avoid any difficulties later on. Debris from any work preceding the actual installation is widely recognised as being the number one cause of thermostatic shower valve related problems, so it’s an important and highly recommended step to remember. 

So to begin, after the control handles and sleeves have been removed from the body of the shower valve, carefully consider and decide upon the right mounting point for the shower valve within your pre-prepared recess. Take care to keep the recess & workspace at a size concealable by the cover plate, ensuring to allow maximum clearance to allow comfortable handling of the parts during installation. 

Once the valve is satisfactorily positioned, use thread-sealant to plumb-in the inlet and outlet connections (connecting the water to the primary valve outlet and the auxiliary connection to the secondary outlet where applicable). Plumbing the hot and cold feeds the wrong way will generally lead to a solely hot or cold water feed, with no hot/cold mixing involved. To correct this problem, simply switch the feeds over by removing the thermostatic cartridge and pointing the locating lugs away from the inlets, and then re-position the thermostatic cartridge. 

Now, after removing the hot and cold check valves behind the hp nuts, turn the water on, to flush the pipe-work once more, so as to avoid any leaks or internal valve damage. Replace both the check valves and hp nuts after flushing, before checking the valves and all relevant pipe-work for leaks. It’s also worth checking that the hp isolating screws are fully closed too, for whilst they’re only there for maintenance purposes, they can allow water to escape. The check valve cartridges and filters should also be checked and cleaned, to prevent cold water passing into the hot water system via the valve. 

Next, set your thermostat to 42 degrees (the recommended temperature) by turning anti-clockwise for hot or clockwise for cold. Replace the retaining sleeves and cover as you fit the cover plate into position using silicon. Tidy up and clean away any excess silicon to leave the cover plate presented neatly against the wall. Finally, after replacing the handles, you’re done. 

Any further or ongoing queries regarding your product or installation should be relayed to your supplier or manufacturer. 

About the Author: 

Ant Standring regulary writes for BathEmpire, who sell a range of products to help you achieve the bathroom of your dreams. 




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