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How to look after dry, frizzy, coarse hair.


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“QUENCH THE THIRST OF FRIZZY HAIR”

By Diana Dudas

I receive
literally hundreds of emails a week, worldwide, pertaining to various
hair care problems. Most of these emails come from frustrated frizzy
haired ladies and gents. It seems to be such a mystery


“Why is my hair so frizzy?”,

“What can be done to calm my pouffy hair?”,
“Why is my hair so dry?”
“Why does my hair feel so coarse?”

Well, in
this article I hope to cover some of the main reasons as to why many of
us suffer with the affliction better known as THE FRIZZIES! But more
often than not, the cause of the problems mentioned above, is a moisture
deficiency!

Oil and
Water…

90% of us
suffer with dry brittle or frizzy hair because our hair is deficient of
(moisture) WATER!  There is a certain preconceived notion that has been
passed on from generation to generation. That is the idea that our hair
is dry, because we are lacking in natural oils. We are told that if we
nurture our hair by brushing vigorously 100 times a day, with an
all-natural bristle brush, or if we pamper our hair with hot oil
treatments or smother out hair with cholesterols, then we are sure to be
blessed with beautiful, shiny and healthy locks.

This might
be the case, if you have young virgin (hair that is not chemically
treated) hair but this is certainly not the case, once you have impaled
your tresses, with harsh chemicals such as bleaches and alkaline
permanents; or if you have naturally curly hair.


Naturally
Curly Hair…

Those of us
with curly hair, YES! I too have curly hair; have these curls, because
of a curvature of the hair follicles .A normal hair follicle under a
microscope would be seen as perfectly straight. However we have a
definite bend in ours. This causes us to have natural curls.  When the
hair curves it compels the cuticle (the outer layer of the hair) to
lift.

The
cuticle

Under a
microscope, A cuticle is similar in appearance to shingles on a roof.
When the hair is in good condition and has good porosity the tiles or
cuticle layers are tight together and perfect in shape. When hair is in
bad condition or has poor porosity, the cuticle layers are lifted and
sometimes damaged and broken.

When the
cuticle layers are in good health, the hair has a smooth appearance, and
because the layers of the cuticle are so tightly knit together, the
light is able to reflect off the cuticle. This is what makes hair shine!

When the
cuticle layers are not tight together, the hair will feel coarse and
brittle. The hair will then absorb the light and not reflect. This will
give a surface appearance of dull and lifeless hair.

To sum up
this scenario. Because curly haired cuticle layer is permanently lifted,
it feels, coarse, and brittle and has no brilliance. Hence the dull,
lifeless look. It also means that our hair has poor porosity.

Porosity

Is the
ability for hair to be able to absorb and retain moisture. The best way
for me to explain this is to would be for you to imagine a sponge. First
of all imagine a brand new sponge. It will have tiny holes in it, and
when you immerse it in water, it will soak up a large quantity, and be
able to hold that liquid for a long period of time. This is because it
has good porosity. Now imagine an old sponge. Its holes have become
damaged and distorted. It might even be torn in some areas. When you
immerse this sponge in the same amount of liquid, it will absorb far
less and will certainly not be able to retain the moisture so readily.

It is the
same with hair. Hair that has poor porosity will not be able to absorb
or retain moisture as well as hair that has good porosity. making hair
permanently dry.

Hot oil
treatments…

Traditions
have taught many of us that lavishly applying oil to our hair will give
us the soft, shiny hair that we all desire, however more often than not,
the opposite takes place.

Most oils
if they are not essential oils do not have the ability to penetrate into
the hair shaft nor do heavy cholesterols. What they will do, is to lay
on top of the cuticle, and coat the cuticle. This may give the hair some
nrilliance, however, it will also coat the hair and causes product build
up


Product
build up…

Once the
hair is coated, your problems will commence. First of all, the moisture
that our hair so desperately needs will not be able to permeate through
the wall of product build. The moisture is then not able to find its way
underneath the cuticle layer. The hair cannot then be conditioned.  Also
the oils will not diffuse. If you use any kind of hot styling tools such
as blow dryers or hot irons, what will happen to your hair, is exactly
what happens when you put an egg into a hot pan. It will fry.

If you live
in a sunny climate, the oil will do the same thing. The sun will heat
the oil and fry your hair. You must have heard the term, my hair feels
fried.

Optimum
condition.
..

For hair to
be in tiptop condition it has to have a moisture  (water) content of at
least 8%, and the right balance of protein and natural oil. Most of us
produce enough natural oil (sebum), to keep our hair healthy, but lack
the moisture.

What to
do

You need to
give your hair lots of TLC, with shampoos that are designed to restore
your hairs moisture level to its optimum 8%. Along with intense
conditioners that will help to repair damaged cuticles, improve
porosity, elasticity and general health and appearance of your hair.

Those of us
with naturally curly, wavy or frizzy hair, those who use hot styling
tools or who chemically treat our hair, will need to give our hair extra
nurturing by supplying our hair with the necessary nutrition and
moisture that it needs.

Chemical
treatments (i.e., perms, hair dyes or bleaches). will deplete the hair
of moisture bringing the hair moisture level own to as low as 2%. When
this occurs you will start to notice split ends.

The same
will happen with constant use of blow-dryers or hot styling tools. If
these split ends are not repaired forthwith and the moisture level not
restored to 8%, your split ends will turn to breakage. This obviously
needs to be avoided at all costs.

Those of us
who live in hot, sunny or arid climates; need to make sure that our hair
care product contain sunscreens to protect our hair from the damaging
affects of the UV rays. If not, the same thing will happen to the hair.


Summary
...

Our hair
needs MOISTURE, MOISTURE, and MOISTURE! Who needs to add moisture more
than most? People with naturally curly hair, chemically treated, hot
styling tool users or people who live in hot sunny and arid climates.